TT
5^
Class J7I5^
Book — z4iiLS_
Copyright N"
COPyRIGHT DEPOSIT
Drafting Pants and Overalls
By
HARRY SIMONS
Technical Editor of "The Clothing Designer and Manufacturer," and "The Tailor
Mechanic," and author of "The Science of Grading," and "Designing Overcoats."
PUBLISHED BY
THE CLOTHING DESIGNER CO.
70 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK
(Copynght luiie, 1915)
^^^e^-i
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THE CLOTHING DESIGNER COMPANY
70 FIFTH AVE.
NEW YORK
m
S m
The Clothing
Designer and
Manufacturer
Is a monthly technical journal devoted to
the science of designing and making
clothes.
ESTABLISHED five years ago, practi-
cally every designer and clothing manu-
facturer in the United States, Canada,
Europe and Australia subscribe to it, and
use it monthly as a reference and text
book.
Every issue contains diagrams, drafts,
and technical information on scientific
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dren's clothing — including cotton gar-
ments of every description.
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THE
TAILOR
MECHANIC
Is a monthly technical journal devoted to
the science of cutting and tailoring.
THIS magazine is indispensable for
cutters and tailors, inasmuch as it con-
tains rudimentary designing lessons
drafts and text on latest styles ; foreman's
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JUN22
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION.
The author has long felt the need of a reliable and an
efficient pants and overall system, as there are various
methods of drafting pants and overalls in vogue, which
give only partial satisfactory results. The system ex-
plained in this book has been thoroughly tested. The
various diagrams are minutely described, and the reader
will find them very simple.
This volume also contains a complete table of pro-
portions together with the various alterations, that are used
in the mail-order houses.
The purchaser of this book, after mastering the dia-
grams herein explained, should be able to handle any pants
or overall problem that he may be confronted with.
(Signed)
HARRY SIMONS.
CONTENTS
CONTENTS
Page
Apron Overall 22-23
Bow-legged and knock-kneed 18-19
Drafting Pants Pockets and Pocket Lays 28-29
Forepart draft 6-7
Mail-order changes 26-27
Measuring Pants 5
One-piece Overall 24-25
Overall draft 20-21
Overall and Pants proportions . 31
Peg top Pants 14-15
Regular Pants draft, complete 8-9
Riding Breeches ._.. 30
Stout Pants draft 10-11
Work Pants 16-17
Young men's Pants draft 12-13
MEASURING PANTS
PANTS MEASUREMENTS
Diagram I.
Diagram I
MEASUREMENTS
The illustration on this page gives you a correct idea of how the measurement shouKl he
taken for a pair of pants.
A to B is the waist measurement.
C to D is the seat measurement.
I to J is the knee measurement.
K to L is the bottom measurement.
E to F is the outside measurement. This can be taken with or without the waistl)and.
G to H is the inseam measurement.
The difference between the outside seam measurement and the inseam measurement is the
FOREPART
Diagram III and IV.
DRAFTING THE FOREPART
Construction Lines
MEASUREMENTS
Waist 34 inches.
Seat 40 inches.
Rise 93^ inches.
Knee 20 inches.
Bottom 15j^ inches.
Inseam 32 inches.
DRAFT
Draw hne ABCDEF.
A to C is the rise or 9>^ inches
C to F is the inseam or 32 inches.
E is half way between C and F.
D is 2 inches from E.
Square out from points ACDF.
C to G is ^ of seat.
G to H is >^ inch.
Square up from H to L.
G to I is >^ of seat.
I to J is Yz inch.
I to K is 5^ inch.
M is half way between I and C.
Square up from M to N.
.Square down from M to O.
H to P is >i of seat.
Square out from P to B.
Draw line P-I.
to R is >4 incli.
Draw hne M-R-S. •
R to T and R to U are ^4 of knee (20 inches).
S to W is ]A, of bottom (15^^ inches).
Draw lines K-T-V and C-U-W, whicli completes all the construction lines for the forepart.
The construction lines in this diagram are for the conservative styles of trousers.
FOREPART
Conservative Trousers
This diagram is for medium priced clothing. The style is conservative, it being neither Peg
nor English.
MEASUREMENTS
W'aist 34 inches.
.Seat 40 inches.
Knee 20 inches.
Bottom 15j,4 inches.
Rise 9}^ inches.
Inseam 32 inches.
DRAFT
Draw line ARCDE
A to C is 9j^ inches (the rise).
C to E is the inseam (32 inches).
C to D is the knee, i/^ of the inseam less 2 inches, which in tliis case is 14 inches.
Square out from points ACDE.
C to F is i^ of the seat.
F to G is J.4 inch.
-Square up from G to H.
F to I is J/^ of seat.
1 to J is Yi inch.
I to K is 1/2 inch
t is half way between I and C.
Square up from L to M and down from L to X.
G to R is l^ of seat.
FOREPART
L H
H i , G
i±
Diagram III.
Square out from R to B.
Draw line R-I.
Dray line S, which is % inch below R-I.
M to H and M to Y are J4 of waist each.
Shape the front of trousers H-J.
C to X is 34 inch.
O to T and O to U are % of knee each.
N to O is >^ inch.
Draw line L-O-P.
P to y and P to W are j4 of bottom each.
Draw the outside seam Y-X-U-W and the inside scam J-T-V.
Draw line V-W, which completes the forepart.
Diagram IV,
REGULAR PANTS
Diagram V.
REGULAR PANTS DRAFT
( Complete )
This draft is a continuation of diagram 2, showing the complete draft of forepart and
back.
MEASUREMENTS
Waisf 34.
Seat 40.
Knee 20.
Bottom I5y2.
Rise 914.
Inseam 32.
DRAFT
The forepart is drafted the same as explained in diagram 2.
BACK
1 to 4 is 1/12 of seat.
4 to 5 is 5^ inch.
Square down from 5 to 6.
5 to 6 is 5^ inch.
2 is half way between J and M.
Draw line 3-R-2-7.
2 to 7 is 2J/2 inches.
Shape the seat 7-2-1-6.
B to 9 is 1^ inches.
S to J and 7 to 8 are J^ of waist plus 2}i inches, 19>4 inches in this case.
11 to U is J/^ inch.
W to 13 is y2 inch.
Draw line 8-9-11-13.
T to 10 is ^ inch.
V to 12 is ^ inch.
Draw the inseam 6-10-12, which completes the draft.
REGULAR PAN IS
DIAGRAM V.
10 ' STOUT PANTS
DIAGRAM VI.
STOUT PANTS
This draft is for a conservative style, and is made according to the average proportion-
ate measurements.
Waist 40.
Seat 42.
Rise lOK-
Knee 20 J^.
Bottom 16.
Inseam 32.
MEASUREMENTS
DRAFT
Draw hne ABCDEF.
A to C is lOyi inches.
C to F is the inseam, 32 inches.
E is half way between C and F.
E to D is 2 inches.
Square out from points A-C-D-F.
C to H is 3^ of seat plus J^ inch.
Square up from H to N.
G to H is >4 inch.
C to I is % of seat.
I to J and I to K are J/l inch each.
L is half way between I and C.
Square up from L to N.
M to O and M to P are % of waist each.
O to R is 3^ inch.
Draw line R-P.
Square down from O to U.
to U IS 1/6 of waist.
Draw line U-H.
H to S is % of seat.
Square out from S to B.
Draw line S-L
Shape the front R-J.
Square down from L to W.
B' to 6 is J4 inch.
V to X and V to Y are % of knee each.
W to Z and W to X are % of bottom each.
Z to 3 and 2 to 4 are % 'tich each.
Shape the inseam J-X-3 and the outside seam P-6-Y-4.
W to 5 is ^ inch.
Sha])e the bottom 3-3-4, which completes the forepart.
BACK
8 is half way between N and M.
.*^quare up from 8 to 9.
S to 9 is lyi inches.
1 )ra\v line 9-7-K.
j to 11 is 1/12 of seat.
11 to 12 is Yz inch.
12 to 13 is ^ inch.
Shape the seat 9-7-J-13.
P to R plus 9 to 14 is 1/2 of waist plus 2% inches.
B to 15 is 1 inch.
Y to 17 is yi inch.
2 to 19 is M inch.
Shape the outside seam 14-15-17-19.
X to 16 is % inch.
Z to 18 is .j4 inch.
.Shape the inseam 13-16-18.
Shape the bottom 18-19 rounding out }i inch at point W, which completes the draft.
STOUT PANTS
11
DIAGRAM VI
12 YOUNG MEN'S PANTS
Diagram VII.
YOUNG MEN'S PANTS
This draft is for an English style, and is to be used for woolen goods only. The draft
is made for a proportionate size 34.
MEASUREMENTS
Waist 34.
Seat 40.
Knee 19.
Bottom 15.
Inseam 32.
DRAFT
Draw line ABCD.
A to B is 9j^ inches or the rise.
B to D is 32 inches, the inseam.
B to C is J4 of the inseam less 2 inches.
Square out from points ABCD.
B to E is J^ of 40, the seat, plus }4 inch.
E to 7 is 3^ of seat.
7 to F is ^ inch.
H is half way between B and 7.
Square up from H to I and down from H to M.
M to N is >4 inch.
Draw hne H-N-O.
1 to J and I to K are 34 oi waist.
E to 6 is >^ of 40, the seat.
Draw line 6-7.
Shape line J-F.
B to 5 is 34 inch.
N to P and N to Q are y4 of the knee, 19 inches.
O to R and O to S are 34 of the bottom, 15 inches, less 34 inch each.
Shape the inseam F-P-R and the outside seam K-5-Q-S.
O to T is ^ inch.
Shape the bottom R-S, which completes the forepart.
BACK
F to G is 1/12 of seat plus 3^2 inch.
Drop point G % inch.
2 is half way between J and I.
Draw line L-6-2-Z.
2 to Z is 234 inches.
K to J and Z to 3 are 34 of waist plus 234 inches.
5 to B is 1 inch.
.Shape the seat Y-G.
P to U and Q to V are ^ inch each.
R to W and S to X are % inch each.
Shape the inseam G-U-W and the outside seam 3-V-X.
Shape the bottom W-K.
Take H inch Vee out at ]ioiiit 4, which completes the draft.
YOUNG MEN'S PANTS
13
DlACJRAM VII
U REGULAR PEG PANTS
Diagram VIII.
FULL PEG PANTS
The diagram here illustrated is for full peg trousers. You will note that the inseam coii-
structiou line is squared straight down from point J on the seat line. This gives you the ex-
tra length on the outside seam that is required in a full peg trousers.
MEASUREMENTS
Waist 34.
Seat 40.
Inseam 42.
Rise 9.
Knee 22.
Bottom 16.
DRAFT
Draw line ABCDE.
A to C is 9 inches.
C to D is 1/2 of inseam less 2 inches.
C to E is 32 inches, the inseam.
Square out from points ABCDE.
C to F is J/2 of seat.
F to G is J/2 inch.
Square up from G to L.
F to H is J/g of seat.
H to I is >< inch.
H to J is J/2 inch.
K is half way between H and C.
Square up from K to M.
M to L and M to N are J4 of waist each.
G to S is J^ of seat.
Draw line H-S.
Line T is J4 '"^^1"' from line H-S.
Draw line L-I.
C to R is J/^ inch.
Square down from J to P.
C to V is J^ of 22, the knee.
P .to U is >^ of 16, the bottom.
Shape the outside seam N-R-V-U.
Shape the inside seam H-O-P.
Draw the bottom P-U, which completes the forepart.
BACK
2 is half way between M and L.
Draw line 2-S-6.
2 to 3 is 2j^ inches.
1 to 8 is 1/12 of seat plus Yi inch.
8 to 9 is ^ inch.
Shape the seat 3-S-9.
LN plus 3-4 is Yz of seat plus 2J4 inches, 19J4 inches in this case.
B to 10 is 2J/2 inches.
V to 12 is Y inch.
U to 14 is Y '"ch.
Shape the outside seam 4-12-14.
O to iris % inch.
P to 13 is Yx inch.
Shape the inseam 9-11-13, which completes the draft.
REGULAR PEG PANTS
15
DIAGRAM \"1I1
WORK PANTS
Diagram IX.
WORK PANTS
This draft is especially adapted for khak and all cotton materials.
MEASUREMENTS
Waist 34.
Seat 40.
Rise 103^.
Knee 21.
Bottom 17.
Inseam 32.
DRAFT
Draw line ABCD.
A to B is I0y2 inches.
B to C is 2 inches less than yi of the inseam.
B to D is 32 inches, the inseam.
Square out from points ABCD.
B to F is 3^ of seat plus yi inch.
Square up from F to N.
F to H is J/g of seat.
H to G is 3^ inch.
I is half way between G and B.
Square up from I to J.
J to N and J to O are 34 of ^^ each.
F to 2 is 3^ of seat.
Draw line 2-G.
Shape N-H.
Square down from I to K.
K to L is 34 inch.
Draw line I-L-M.
M to R and M to S are % of bottom each.
L to P and L to Q are % of knee each.
Shape the inseam H-P-R and the outside seam O-B-Q-S, which finishes the forc])art.
BACK
T is half way between N and J.
G to V is .>4 inch.
Draw line U-T-V.
T to U is 234 inches.
H to W is 1/12 of seat.
W to X is 3^ inch.
X to Y is ^ inch.
Shape the seat U-T-Y.
O to N plus U to Z is 3^ of waist plus 13^ inches.
P to 4 and Q to 5 are % inch each.
R to 6 and S to 7 are ^ inch each.
Draw the in seam Y-4-6 and the outside seam Z-5-7, which completes the draft.
WORK PAN IS
DIAGRAM I\
BOW-LEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED
Diagram X.
BOW-LEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED
This illustrat^ion shows the variation from the regular draft that is used in producing
trousers for bow-legged and knock-kneed. The dotted line shows the change for bow-legs.
The dot and dash line shows the change for knock-knees.
EXPLANATION
Boi^'-Lcggcd
Move the center line in 1 3/4 inches from M to 10.
10 to 11 and 10 to 12 are 34 of the bottom each.
15 to 16 and 15 to 18 are 34 of the knee each.
Shape the inseam -16-11 and the outside seam B-Q-12, which finishes the forepart.
DRAFT
16 to 17 is .)4 inch.
18 to 19 is 34 inch.
11 to 13 is ^ inch.
12 to 14 is Yz inch.
Shape the inseam Y-17-13 and the outside seam 3-19-14, which finishes the back.
Knock-Kuccd.
Move the center line I34 inches out from M to 20.
20 to 22 and 20 to 23 are 34 of the bottom each.
24 to 25 and 24to 26 are 34 of the knee each.
Shape the inseam H-25-22 and the outseam B
-26-23. which completes the forepart.
BACK
The same measurements are allowed for seams on the back of the knock-kneed as for the
bow-legged.
BOWLEGGED AND KNOCK-KNEED
19
13 11 10 20 IZ 1^
DIACRAM X
20 OVERALL DRAFT
Diagram XI.
OVERALL DRAFT
This overall is made with a side seam, and is drafted 2 sizes larger than the regular
pants measurement at the waist and seat.
MEASUREMENTS
Waist 34.
Seat 40.
Knee 20 1^.
Bottom 19.
Rise lOK'-
Inseam 32.
DRAFT
Draw line ABCDE.
C to G is y. of 21.
G to H is >4 inch.
Square up from H to N.
G to I is J/^ of seat.
I to J is j^ inch.
H to 6 is >^ of seat.
Square out from point 6 to B.
Draw line 6-1.
F is half way between I and C.
Square up from F to K and down from F to M.
Shape line N-J.
R to L and R to Q is J4 of knee each.
M to S and M to T are ^ of bottom each.
Shape the inseam J-R-S and the outside seam A-Q-T.
N to O is 1/4 of waist, which completes the front.
BACK
W is half way between N and K.
Dra\\ line J-W-X.
W to X is 3 inches.
O to N plus X to Y is >4 of waist plus 1' s in;hes.
J to V is 1/12 of 21 plus y2 inch.
V to 9 is ^ inch.
Shape the seat X-9.
R to 2 is 1 inch.
S to 4 is 1 inch.
Shape the inseam 9-2-4.
B to Z is 1^ inches.
Q to 3 is Yi inch.
T to 5 is Y2 inch.
Draw the outside seam Y-T-5, which comi)letes the draft.
OVERALL
DIAGRAM XI
APRON OVERALL
Diagram XII.
APRON OVERALL
This overall is made with a side seam and bib, as illustrated. The draft is made 2 sizes
larger at the waist and seat than the actual measurements. It is especially adapted for the
better grade goods.
MEASUREMENTS
Waist 34.
Rise 11.
Seat 40.
Knee 21.
Bottom 19.
Inseam 32.
DRAFT
Draw line ABEFG.
A to B is 11 inches. i
B to E is 2 inches less than 3/2 of the inseam.
B to F is the inseam, 32 inches.
F to G is 1 inch for turn-up.
Square up from points ABEFG.
B to H is >4 of 21.
Square up from H to L.
H to I is >^ of 21.
I to J is y2 inch.
1 to 20 is 1 ■/ inches.
M is half way between H and B.
Square down from M to N.
H to U is y^ of 21.
Draw line U-1.
Shape the front L-J.
E to U is 11 inches.
F to O is 1034 inches.
Draw the inseam J-U-O, which completes th'j front.
BIB
Square up from L to 16.
L to 16 is 11 inches.
16 to 17 is 5j^ inches.
A to 14 is l-)4 inches.
Draw hues 16-17, 17-14, 13-14, and H-A.
BACK .
L to Y is 1/12 of waist.
U to Z is 1/12 of 21.
Draw line Y-Z.
J to W is 1/12 of 21 plus I/' inch.
"W to 1 is >1 inch.
Y to 2 is 5j4 inches.
Draw the seat, 2-Z-l.
U to 19 is Yi inch.
Shape the inseam 1-19-P.
A to 4 is Vy inches.
Draw line 4-F.
2 to 3 is 3 inches.
Shape 3-14.
5 to 7 and 6 to 8 are 1 inch each.
7 to 8 is 8>4 inches.
A to 10 is 4>^ inches.
A to 6 is 63^ inches.
POCKETS
Make the back pocket 6 inches wide and 7 inches deep.
Make the pocket on bib 5 inches wide and 6 inches deep.
Make the lower side pocket 6 J/ inches deep and 3;^ inches wide.
APRON OV'ERALL
DIAGRAM XII
24 ONE-PIECE OVERALL
Diagram XIII.
ONE-PIECE OVERALL
This draft is for a cheap grade of overalls. It is matle without any side-seam. The draft
is made 2 sizes larger than the regular pants measurements across the seat and waist.
MEASUREMENTS
Waist 34.
Seat 40.
Knee 20.
Bottom ISyi.
Rise \0y2.
Inseam 32.
DRAFT
Draw line ABCD.
A to B is lOyi inches.
B to D is the inseam, 32 inches.
B to C is J4 of the inseam less 2 inches, 14 inches in this case.
Square out from points B, C and D.
B to E is >^ of 21.
E to F is J/s of 21 less % inch.
Square down from F to G.
F to G is 1/12 of 21.
Draw line B-G-R.
J is half way between G and B.
Square up from J to K.
J to K is 103^ inches.
Draw line A-K-I.
K to I is >^ of 18.
Square up from H to I.
H to L is >^ of 21.
Draw line L-G.
Line M-N is % inch from L-G.
Shape the front I-G.
2 to O is 1 inch.
Draw line C-O-P.
3 to Q is 1 inch.
8— DESIGNER 1800 Martin May 17
Draw line D-Q-T.
C to O is ^ of the knee.
D to Q is yi of bottom.
Shape the inseam G-O-Q, wdiich finishes the forepart.
BACK
I A plus AT is y2 of 36 plus \% inches, 19J.4 inches in this case.
Square up from T to U.
T to U is 3 inches.
Draw line U-A.
G to R is 1/12 of 21.
K to S is 34 -inch.
Draw line U-R-S.
Shape the seat U-S.
O to P is 54 inch.
Q to T is % inch.
Shape the inseam S-T, which completes the draft.
ONE-PIECE OVERALL
DIAGRAM XIII
26 MAIL-ORDER CHANGES
Diagram XIV.
MAIL ORDER CHANGES
Lowering and raising the rise
Diagrams A and B show exactly how to lower the rise 1 inch and raise the rise 1 inch.
FOREPART. {Diagram B.)
A to 1 and B to 2 are 1 inch each.
A to 3 and B to 4 are 1 inch each.
Line 1-2 and line 3-4 are the same length as line A-B. In other words square up and down
from points B and A. Then reshape the side-seam as illustrated.
BACK. {Diagram A.)
Extend line A to 1.
Square up and down from point C to 3 and 6.
A to 1, B to 2 and C to 3 are 1 inch each.
A to 4, B to 5 and C to 6 are 1 inch each.
Reshape the side-seam, as illustrated.
CONTINUOUS WAISTBAND. {Diagrams C and D.)
1 to 3 is 1)4 inches.
2 to 4 is 1^ inches.
BACK. (Diagram C.)
6 to 3 is 1;54 inches.
2 to 5 is 1^ inches.
1 to 4 is lyi inches.
CUFF BOTTOMS. {Diagrams F and G)
FOREPART. {Diagram G)
Square down from A to 1 and B to 2.
A to 1 is 5 inches.
B to 2 is 5 inches.
A to 3 and 3 to 5 are 2 inches each.
B to 4 and 4 to 6 are 2 inches each.
4 to 8 and 3 to 7 are 34 inches each.
1 to 9 and 2 to 10 are 34 inches each.
Reshape the bottom A-7-5-9 and B-8-6-10, as illustrated.
BACK. {Diagram F)
Square down from A to 1 and B to 2.
A to 1 is 5 inches ancl B to 2 is 5 inches.
A to 3 and 5 to 5 are 2 inches each.
3 to 7 and 4 to 8 are 34 inch. each.
1 to 9 and 2 to 10 are 34 inch each.
Reshape the bottom A-7-9 and B-8-10.
DRESS. {Diagram F.)
B to 2 is ^ inch.
C is the notch.
A to 1 is Vn inch.
Draw line 1-2-3.
FLY (Diagram /.)
AB is the forepart.
1 to 2 is 2 inches.
3 to 4 is 134 inches.
Draw lines 1-3 and 2-4.
MAIL-ORDER CHANGES
27
DIAGRAM XIV
WAISTBAD (Diagram H .)
Draw line 1-2.
1 to 5 is 2 inches.
5 to 6 is ■/< of the waistband measure.
6 to 2 is 1 inch.
Square up from 1 to 3 and up from 2 tc 4.
1 to 3 is 2y2 inches.
2 to 4 is 2 inches.
Draw hnes 1-3, 3-4, and 4-2.
28
DRAFTING PANTS POCKETS AND POCKET LAYS
TN cutting pants pockets, the width, depth and
•^ shape, should be considered. They should be
cut exact so as to eliminate any possible waste.
Most trimmers cut their front pockets, 14" x
14" and back pockets 7" x 18". As pocketing
comes 28" wide, the goods is split up to these
measurements and distributed to the tailors. The
pants tailor then becomes the designer and the
pockets are shaped according to his taste. The
result is that the pockets do not hang correctly
and they are not uniform.
It is very important that the front pockets be
shaped correctly. The top of pocket should be
hollowed out, as shown in the accompanying dia-
gram. This gives the pocket the proper hang
and balance.
The front pockets should be sewed in the pants
1 inch from waistband and opening should be
Syi inches.
The back pockets should be sewed in 3;^
inches from top of waistband and opening should
he Sy^ inches.
Cash Pockets.
Dial/ ram C.
A to B is 4 inches.
A to C is 8 inches.
Piof/raui D. Side Pieces.
A to B is 1>< inches.
A to C is 8 inches.
n
Front P.ocket Lay Shozving A Saving Of Side
Pieces And Watch Pockets.
A. Front Pockets.
C. Watch Pockets.
D. Side Pockets.
Diagram F.
Back Pockets and IVatch Pockets.
B. Back Pockets.
C. Watch Pockets.
Note — Back Pockets are only 17 inches long on
account of pocket being 3^/2 inches from top of
waistband. This gives you the same depth as
18 inch pocket which is set in 4^ inches from
top.
Front Pockets.
Diagram A.
A to D is
14 inches.
A to H is
14 inches.
A to B is
23/ inches.
C to D is
23/2 inches.
B C is hollowed out 1 inch at point F.
Shape Pocket as shown.
Rack Pockets.
A to B is 7 inches.
A to C is 17 inches.
DRAFTING PANTS POCKETS AND. POCKET LAYS
29
B
&
3
30
RIDING BREECHES
Diagram XV.
RIDING BREECHES
MEASUREMENTS
Waist 34.
Seat 40.
Knee 16.
Calf 12K'-
Shank 10^.
Rise 10.
DRAFT
Draw line ABCDEFG.
A to C is 10 inches.
A to D is 20 inches.
D to E is 7 inches.
D to F is llj^.
D to G is 19 inches.
Square out from points ABCDEFG.
C to H is 5^ of seat.
H to I is Yz inch.
Square up from I to O and down from I to 26.
H to J is ^ of seat.
J to K and J to L are Yz inch each.
M is half way between J and C.
Square up from M to N.
N to () and N to P are J4 of waist each.
to R is i^ inch.
P to S is J/^ inch.
Draw line S-T.
1 to W is >^ of seat.
Square out from W to 3.
Draw line W-J.
XL is J4 inch from W-J.
Shape the front R-K.
C to T is 2 inches.
Square up from T to 3 and down from T to 4.
M to U is 2 inches.
Square down from U to V.
Z to 5 and Z to 6 are Y\ of knee each.
2 to 7 and 2 to 8 are % of calf eahc.
V to 9 and V to 10 are Y of shank each.
Shape the outside seam 3-T-6-8-10.
Shape the inside seam K-1 1-5-7-9.
Add \y2 inch waistband, which completes the
forepart.
BACK
N to Hne 14- T is 1 inch.
Draw line J-14-15-16.
14 to 15 is J4 of waist.
15 to 16 is \Yi inches.
K to 17 is 1/12 of seat.
17 to 18 is 1 inch.
18 to 19 is Yi inch.
Shape the seat 16-15-14-17-19.
R-S plus 15-20 is Y2 of waist plus 2jX inches.
Take out ■/ inch Vee, as illustrated.
T to 22 is 2Y\ inches.
R to 23 is Y inch.
6 to 25 is Y2 inch.
8 to 27 is Y-i inch.
10 to G is 2J4 inches.
11 to 24 is ^ inch.
5 to 26, 7 to 28, and 9 to 29 are y-i inch each.
Shape the inseam and the outside seam, as il
lustrated.
Take out 1'/ inch Vee from 30 to 31
FOR FRONT BUTTONING
Take off from the forepart 6 to 32, 8 to 34,
which are 2J4 inches each, 10 to 36, which
is 1J4 inches. Add this to the back from 25
to i}>, and 27 to 35.
G to 2)7 add 2^ inches.
Take out 1>4 inch Vee from 38 to 39, as illus-
trated.
Take out 1 inch Vee from back from 30 to
40, as shown on diagram.
OVERALLS AND PANTS PROPORTIONS
31
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